Poppin My Collar

Anything that frames the face is very important. Collars are the closest part of a garment to the face for most men. The scale of the collar is as important as the shape of it. A wider collar will balance a man's wider jaw, and a smaller collar will work best for a man with a longer face. A gentleman with a wide face who wears a smaller pointy collar is only accentuating the negative. Balance is the key to the most attractive look for each person. As for suiting, the full spread collar is almost never necessary unless you are a very broad gentleman and will be wearing a full Windsor knot tie. Jacket collars are supposed to be consistent with the breadth of the shoulders. Wider lapels can be best on a broader guy, and narrower collars on smaller builds. Peaked lapels are now considered completely acceptable. As long as the lapel is not in high contrast to the jacket, which will still look a little disco, and will need the right type of guy to pull it off (who must be under 30 or a rock star).

xoxo,

Ruth

Pull It Together

Subtle themes can take an ensemble to the next level. For instance, a gray jacket with a subtle purple pinstripe can be mixed with a pair of solid black flannel trousers and a deep purple sweater vest over a lavender dress shirt. The jacket has a pattern, the vest mimics the color of the pattern in the jacket, the dress shirt is another shade of the same tone of the vest, and the pants are solid but introduce a subtle texture. Outfits like this give the eye something to play with in every element. They do not look busy or overdone, but simply add a unifying theme. Had all the pieces (jacket, vest, shirt, trouser) been used in another ensemble, but without having the colors and textures add interest, the outfit would have been a major yawn. Even a simple track jacket, jeans, and t-shirt combination is more interesting when it is pulled together with a unifying theme. Suppose the jacket was a deep green with an orange stripe on the shoulders. The t-shirt could then be a camouflage print with a small orange graphic, and paired with a pair of dark denim jeans with an interesting wash. What would have been an outfit that looks thrown on now looks like a put together ensemble. It is no less comfortable, nor is it much harder to do. All it takes is an awareness of color and detail. With that sensibility there is nothing that will look boring no matter how simple it is.

xoxo,

Ruth

Metallics

Shiny things are the first things to catch my eye. Most babies are responsive to shiny objects from an early age. The funny thing about metallic clothing and accessories is that there is a very thin line between glam and garish. For women, it is best to keep metallics to a minimum. A simple metallic shirt under a cute jacket, or a great metallic shoe can make any regular outfit pop. As for men, metallic clothing is bound to look like you are channeling an early Elton John. A little metallic in a tie, shoe or belt, however, can add interest to any man's look. Patent leather is also an alternative if you are looking for the gloss without the metal. For the most part, though, it is safe to say that if you are a man adverse to incorporating metallics into your own wardrobe, buying some for your girlfriend instead is an acceptable course of action.

xoxo,

Ruth

1...2...3...Piece Suiting

Some say that American men have become overly casual. There are days where I walk down the street and think that this statement is true. Tuesday, however, threw me for a loop. Ironically, I was in the loop in Chicago. I had been downtown on a job and was walking through a building on the way back to the train. Down the corridor I notice a handsome, tall, well dressed man walking in the opposite direction. He was wearing a fantastic light brown suit, and had worn a lightweight maroon zip sweater over his collared shirt, and underneath his jacket. The suit was impeccably tailored, and the dash of color in the center was genius. I am sure I stared at him a bit too long because he caught me looking at him. I know that I must not have been the only woman to notice him that day. Kudos to the American men out there who understand the art of dressing!
xoxo,
Ruth

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